香港街頭文化｜糖蔥餅的消逝年代 | Hong Kong Street Food｜The Vanishing Era of Chinese Sugar Candy Wrap (Tong Chung Bing) | 今日回望 | 第31章
糖蔥餅，是香港昔日極具特色的傳統街頭甜食，以手工拉製的糖蔥配上薄餅與芝麻、椰絲製成，口感酥脆清甜。這種看似簡單的小食，其實工藝繁複，代表著一種逐漸消失的民間技藝。從昔日街頭叫賣的熱鬧，到今日僅存少數老師傅堅持製作，糖蔥餅見證了香港飲食文化的變遷與流逝。
Tong Chung Bing, a traditional Hong Kong street sweet, features delicate strands of handmade sugar candy wrapped in a thin crepe with sesame seeds and coconut flakes. Despite its simple appearance, the candy-making process is intricate and represents a fading folk craft. Once commonly sold by street vendors, it has now become a rare delicacy preserved by only a few dedicated artisans. This nostalgic treat reflects the transformation and gradual disappearance of Hong Kong’s street food heritage.
在香港眾多逐漸消失的街頭小食之中，糖蔥餅無疑是一種極具代表性的存在，它不僅是一種甜食，更是一門結合技藝與時間的傳統工藝。糖蔥餅的核心在於「糖蔥」，這種看似像蔥段的白色糖條，其實是以麥芽糖與砂糖經過反覆拉扯與折疊而成，內部形成層層細絲與空氣結構，入口即化，香甜而不膩。製作糖蔥的過程極為講究，需要控制火候與溫度，並依靠師傅的經驗與手感，將原本黏稠的糖團反覆拉長、對折、再拉長，如此循環數十次，才能形成數以萬計的細緻糖絲，這種技藝在過去多以師徒制傳承，並沒有書面記錄，因此一旦失傳，便難以復原。早在五、六十年代，糖蔥餅在香港街頭十分常見，尤其是在學校附近、戲院門口或廟街夜市，經常可以見到師傅即場拉糖與包餅的場面，小販會將糖蔥敲碎，放在薄餅之上，再加入炒香的芝麻與椰絲，然後迅速捲起，遞給顧客，那種香氣與口感，成為不少香港人成長記憶的一部分。當時的糖蔥餅價格低廉，是學生與基層市民最喜愛的甜點之一，同時亦是一種帶有表演性的街頭技藝，吸引途人駐足觀看。然而，隨著香港經濟發展與城市管理制度的改變，街頭小販逐漸被取締，糖蔥餅的生存空間開始收窄，再加上製作工序繁複、利潤有限，年輕一代鮮少願意學習這門手藝，導致傳承出現斷層。到了九十年代之後，糖蔥餅已經變得非常罕見，只能在個別老字號或文化活動中偶爾見到，成為一種帶有懷舊意味的「消失中的味道」。現今社會節奏急促，人們更傾向選擇方便快捷的甜品與零食，而糖蔥餅這種需要現場製作、講究手工的食品，顯得格格不入，但正因如此，它更顯珍貴。近年來，隨著本土文化意識的興起，有部分文化團體與老師傅開始嘗試保存與推廣糖蔥製作技藝，例如在市集或工作坊中示範拉糖過程，讓年輕一代重新認識這門古老工藝，這不僅是對一種小食的保護，更是對香港集體記憶的延續。糖蔥餅的年代，也許已逐漸遠去，但它所承載的，不只是甜味，而是一段關於時間、手藝與人情味的故事，每一條細緻的糖絲，都像是歷史的痕跡，在空氣中輕輕融化，卻難以被遺忘。
English Version
Among the many fading street foods of Hong Kong, Tong Chung Bing stands out as a uniquely symbolic delicacy that represents not just a sweet treat but also a traditional craft shaped by time and skill. At the heart of this snack lies “tong chung,” a white, scallion-like sugar candy made from maltose and granulated sugar through a labor-intensive pulling process. The candy is stretched, folded, and stretched again repeatedly, creating thousands of fine strands with air pockets inside, resulting in a light, crispy texture that melts instantly in the mouth. The process requires precise control of temperature and exceptional manual technique, often passed down through apprenticeships rather than written instructions, making it vulnerable to disappearance once the chain of transmission is broken. In the 1950s and 1960s, Tong Chung Bing was a common sight on Hong Kong streets, especially near schools, theaters, and night markets like Temple Street. Vendors would skillfully break the sugar candy into pieces, place it onto a thin crepe, sprinkle sesame seeds and coconut flakes, and quickly roll it up for customers. The aroma and texture became a cherished part of childhood memories for many locals. Affordable and satisfying, it was particularly محبوب among students and working-class citizens, while the candy-pulling process itself served as a form of street performance that attracted curious onlookers. However, as Hong Kong’s economy grew and urban regulations tightened, street hawkers were gradually phased out, and the space for traditional snacks like Tong Chung Bing diminished. Coupled with its complex preparation and low profit margins, fewer young people were willing to learn the craft, leading to a break in its transmission. By the 1990s, the snack had become increasingly rare, surviving only in a handful of traditional shops or cultural events, evolving into a nostalgic symbol of a disappearing past. In today’s fast-paced society, convenience often takes precedence over craftsmanship, making handmade treats like Tong Chung Bing seem out of place, yet this is precisely what makes them valuable. In recent years, a renewed interest in local culture has led to efforts by artisans and cultural groups to preserve and promote the craft, with demonstrations and workshops introducing the candy-pulling technique to younger generations. This revival is not merely about saving a snack but about preserving a piece of Hong Kong’s collective memory. The era of Tong Chung Bing may be fading, but what it represents—a blend of patience, craftsmanship, and human warmth—continues to resonate. Each delicate strand of sugar is like a thread of history, dissolving gently yet leaving behind a lasting impression that cannot be forgotten.
