香港街頭文化｜砵仔糕的溫熱年代 | Hong Kong Street Food｜The Warm Era of Put Chai Ko (Steamed Bowl Cake) | 今日回望 | 第33章
砵仔糕，是香港傳統街頭甜點之一，以米漿蒸製而成，常見配料有紅豆與黃糖，口感軟糯帶嚼勁。它多以小瓷碗或塑膠杯盛載，方便攜帶，是昔日學生與街坊最愛的小食之一。隨著時代變遷，砵仔糕逐漸由街頭走向店舖，但其溫暖樸實的味道，仍然承載著香港的集體記憶。
Put Chai Ko is a traditional Hong Kong street dessert made from steamed rice flour batter, often topped with red beans or brown sugar. Served in small bowls or plastic cups, it has a chewy and slightly sticky texture that made it a favorite among students and locals. As times changed, this humble snack moved from street stalls into shops, yet its comforting taste continues to represent the warmth of Hong Kong’s past.
在香港眾多懷舊街頭甜品之中，砵仔糕是一種帶有濃厚人情味與生活溫度的存在，它不像某些精緻甜點般講求華麗外觀，而是以最簡單的材料與製作方式，承載著一代又一代香港人的日常記憶。砵仔糕主要由米粉或粘米粉調製而成，加入黃糖或白糖，再配上紅豆，倒入小碗中蒸熟，成品呈現半透明的質感，表面微微凝固，內裡則柔軟帶有彈性，吃的時候通常會用竹籤將整個糕挑出來，邊走邊吃，方便又充滿街頭氣息。這種甜點在五、六十年代的香港極為普遍，當時街頭小販會推著小車，在學校門口、巴士站或屋邨附近叫賣，一個個小碗整齊排列在蒸籠之中，熱氣騰騰，散發著淡淡的米香與糖香，吸引不少學生與街坊駐足購買。對於當時的孩子來說，放學後能吃上一個砵仔糕，是一種簡單而真實的快樂，而這種味道也深深烙印在他們的記憶之中。隨著香港經濟起飛與城市發展，街頭小販逐漸被規範與取締，砵仔糕亦開始從流動攤檔轉移到固定店鋪或熟食中心，製作方式亦出現變化，例如改用塑膠杯代替傳統瓷碗，以提高效率與降低成本，這些改變雖然讓砵仔糕得以延續，但同時也改變了其原有的街頭風貌。進入九十年代之後，隨著西式甜品與連鎖餐飲的興起，年輕一代的口味逐漸轉變，砵仔糕不再是主流選擇，市場需求有所下降，不少傳統檔口因此結業，令這種小食一度面臨被遺忘的危機。然而，砵仔糕並未完全消失，反而在近年出現復興的趨勢，一些老字號店鋪堅持傳統做法，同時亦有新一代店家嘗試創新口味，例如加入椰汁、黑糖或其他配料，吸引年輕消費者，讓這道經典甜品重新受到關注。這種在傳統與創新之間的平衡，正正體現了香港飲食文化的生命力。砵仔糕的年代，也許已經不再是街頭隨處可見的景象，但它所代表的那種溫暖與簡單，仍然存在於香港人的心中，每一口軟糯的糕，都像是一段被保存下來的時光，提醒人們在快速變遷的城市之中，仍然有一些味道，是值得被珍惜與傳承的。
English Version
Among Hong Kong’s nostalgic street desserts, Put Chai Ko stands out as a symbol of warmth and everyday life, representing a simpler time when food was closely tied to community and daily routines. Unlike elaborate desserts that focus on presentation, this humble treat is made from basic ingredients, yet carries deep emotional significance for generations of Hong Kong people. Put Chai Ko is typically made from rice flour or a mixture of rice-based ingredients, combined with sugar—often brown sugar or white sugar—and topped with red beans before being steamed in small bowls. The finished cake has a slightly translucent appearance, with a firm surface and a soft, chewy interior. It is usually eaten by skewering it with a bamboo stick and lifting it out of the bowl, allowing people to enjoy it conveniently while walking, embodying the essence of street food culture. During the 1950s and 1960s, Put Chai Ko was a common sight throughout Hong Kong, with street vendors pushing carts filled with neatly arranged bowls stacked in steaming baskets. These vendors were often found near schools, bus stops, and public housing estates, attracting students and residents with the comforting aroma of rice and sugar. For many children at the time, enjoying a piece of Put Chai Ko after school was a simple yet genuine pleasure, and this memory remains deeply ingrained in their minds. As Hong Kong’s economy grew and urban development accelerated, regulations on street hawkers became stricter, leading to a decline in mobile food stalls. Consequently, Put Chai Ko transitioned from street carts to fixed shops and cooked food centers, and changes in production methods followed, such as the use of plastic cups instead of traditional ceramic bowls to improve efficiency and reduce costs. While these adaptations allowed the dessert to survive, they also altered its original street-side charm. By the 1990s, with the rise of Western desserts and fast-food chains, younger generations developed different taste preferences, and Put Chai Ko gradually lost its mainstream appeal, causing many traditional vendors to close down. At one point, it seemed as though this classic snack might fade into obscurity. However, in recent years, there has been a revival of interest in traditional foods, with long-established shops preserving authentic methods while new businesses experiment with innovative flavors such as coconut milk, black sugar, or modern toppings to attract younger customers. This balance between tradition and innovation reflects the resilience of Hong Kong’s culinary culture. Although the era when Put Chai Ko was a ubiquitous street snack may have passed, the warmth and simplicity it represents remain alive in the hearts of Hong Kong people. Each bite of its soft, chewy texture feels like a preserved fragment of time, reminding us that even in a rapidly changing city, some flavors are worth holding onto and passing down through generations.
